Snowy Scotland
A week of winter wonderland
Last week saw winter arrive in Scotland in all its snowy glory. We had some incredibly cold temperatures (cold for us - I appreciate there are parts of the world that regularly experience far colder extremes) and no wind, which meant the snow hung around rather than making a fleeting visit as it so often does. Having said that, when the temperature rose on Sunday the snow disappeared overnight and today has been back to grey dreich, albeit mild. It was -12C here on Saturday morning and 10C today, a rise of 22 degrees - bonkers!
Prior to last week, I’d been watching the weather forecast and saw the snowy conditions coming so arranged with a friend to head out at the start of the week. Living where we do, we are spoiled for choice for easily accessible locations. Heading out early Tuesday morning in a snow shower, we opted for Assynt as it looked like the road conditions would be better in that direction rather than our original choice of Kinlochewe and Loch Maree. However, as we arrived at Loch Assynt we were both a little deflated. Although there was snow on the hills, it was sparser than we had expected and there was no ice at all on the loch. It was disappointing and we could feel our enthusiasm evaporating.
Mairi mentioned that she had never been to Loch Druim Suardalain near Lochinver so that became Plan B. I think I last visited there in about 2018 so couldn’t remember exactly how to find the single track road that would take us to a walkers’ car park from where we could access some photo locations. Mobile signal is sketchy in places in the Highlands so it wasn’t until we got to Lochinver that I could have a look at a map to find the road. As we drove into the village, we noticed that the pie shop was open. If you are ever in Lochinver treat yourself; they make the most delicious savoury and sweet pies. That was it, a breakfast pie was decided upon. We needed a pick-me-up after all!
Suitably refuelled, we headed off to Loch Druim Suardalain where we had some good views of the iconic mountain, Suilven (if you saw the film ‘Edie’ this is the mountain that features). We ended up having an enjoyable few hours there despite the frequent hail showers that passed over.
Loch Druim Suardalain with Suilven.
Island on Loch Druim Suardalain with Suilven in the background.
Small rocky islands in Loch Druim Suardalain with Suilven in the background
Frozen Loch Druim Suardalain with Suilven disappearing in a hail shower.
Friday saw us back out again, this time we did head over towards Kinlochewe and Lochs Clair and Coulin (you can see them in their autumnal hues here). In hindsight, we should have left about half an hour earlier (or if the roads had been less snowy we’d have gone a bit faster) so that we could have made the most of the lovely colours that greeted us as we arrived. Nevertheless, we made the most of what we got on our arrival at Loch Clair.
Loch Clair with Liathach (L) and Beinn Eighe (R) glowing in the early morning light.
Loch Clair with possibly Creag Dubh and Sgurr Dubh in the background.
From Loch Clair we moved along the road to approach it from a different direction, and to visit Loch Coulin. We had a bit of walking to do to get down to the loch so, despite the chilly -7C, I was absolutely roasting as I had so many layers on. It’s difficult knowing how much to put on as I cool down rapidly once I stop moving.
Loch Clair with Beinn Eighe (R) and other hills reflected in the water.
Loch Clair with Beinn Eighe reflected.
Loch Clair with the lower slopes of Beinn Eighe in the background.
On the banks of Loch Clair.
Loch Clair with Sgurr Dubh (I think) in the background.
A’ Ghairbhe with Bidean Clann Raonaild in the background.
Saturday saw us up early again and heading to Loch Droma. It was the coldest morning yet with -12C at home as I left. The coldest point we hit was -15C but it had warmed up to a balmy -7C by the time we got to our destination. This time we had timed it perfectly and we were treated to the most wonderful colours as the sun rose. It was one of those mornings when it was worth every minute of lost sleep due to the early start.
Frozen Loch Droma with An Teallach in the background.
Even when the colour had gone, there was a glow to the hilltops. (In the video I’ve uploaded, some of the colour seems washed out compared to what was visible that morning.)
The aftermath of the vibrant sunrise over An Teallach and Loch Droma.
We then spent a little time wandering around the Loch Droma dam before heading home.
It was great to get out with my camera so often last week. I’m feeling very rusty, and looking through my images I’ve made so many stupid mistakes. Hey ho, I’ll just have to keep practising. I’m very much hoping we get some more snow!
This post first appeared on Substack, where I share travel stories, photography, and quiet moments from the road.